This is a Product Review for- Belkin BE112230-08 12-Outlet Surge Protector
I live in an area that we get a lot of thunder storms all the time and I've had a fear that i light loose my computer on of these days. i spent so much time and money building my computer that i wanted to insure that mother nature wont come and take it from me. Too do so I bought
Belkin BE112230-08 12-Outlet Surge Protector. After opening the Belkin BE112230-08 12-Outlet Surge Protector it was a surprise that it was thinner than all my other cheep surge protectors. it was almost half as thin and only wide as two of my other Surge Protectors. After installing the
against i can say the fact that I came with a directional cord holder was a major plus. If I was to only give you one reason why to get the Belkin BE112230-08 12-Outlet Surge Protector is that it comes with a Belkin Lifetime Warranty and $300,000 Connected Equipment Warranty so all my stuff now has a $300,000 insurance policy against mother nature.
I am vary happy with the Belkin BE112230-08 12-Outlet Surge Protector I will be buying again for my family.
Review By MuttleyTOP 1000 REVIEWER
I live in Maryland and bought this as a preparatory measure for this years hurricane season. I wished to protect my recently bought electronic equipment from electrical damage during one of the upcoming thunderstorms. After making an extensive search online, I was surprised that most surge protectors are far from being able to protect anything. Therefore despite I have not experienced how this behaves in an actual surge I wanted to write this review to give you an idea about how surge protectors differ in various aspects and what you should look for before deciding on a real good one:
1- Joule rating: This is the maximum amount of energy it can absorb or redistribure before letting through your device. So higher the rating, better the product. Technically over 400-500 joules are considered to be OK and in this aspect 4156J rating for this device is excellent
2- Response time: This is the delay between a surge hits to this device and the protective mechanism kicks off. Most modern devices are pretty good in this aspect. Ideally the delay should be in picosecond range and this product specifies the delay as less than 1 nanosecond so again in the picosecond level, which is fine
3- Wattage: This is the maximum wattage that can pass through this device. Assume that you daisy chain a plug extender and connected various appliances to the same protector. The sum of the wattage of those devices should be less or equal to the wattage of this device. This device allows a maximum of 1800 watts which means you can not attach a 800W kettle and a 1500 watt heater onto the same plug adapter. However since these surge protectors are mainly designed for small electronic appliances, not for kettles or heaters, then, pratctically there is no possibility to exceed this limit. So which is fine too..
3- The last but not least is the clamping voltage or let through voltage: This is very important when buying a surge protector however in many websites this information is overlooked and not included. Clamping voltage is the voltage, above which the surge protector starts protecting. So basically our appliances are designed for 110V and when there is an electrical surge the voltage coming through the power line can go up to thousands in a split second, which means that all your unprotected devices get instantly toasted and that is why we need a surge protector, however a surge protector does not mean that it will protect you from small voltage deviations. Most standard surge protectors do nothing until the voltage goes above 500V this is their clamping voltage, some cheap ones have clamping voltage of 800V or even more. Considering that most delicate electronic appliances start showing damage above 380V these cheap ones basically do nothing but watch your device burn. The lower the clamping voltage the better protection. Ideally clamping voltage should be between 330- 500 V for a decent unit. This one has a 400V value which is pretty decent too. Some sources even value 400V over 330V due to the fact that lower clamping voltage also means the shorter lifespan for the protector. So 400V triline clamping voltage is great for this unit.
A few words about the ethernet protection: most people think it is really unlikely that your internet or telephone line gets hit instead of your powerline but the internet protection protects you for this possibility. Basically you plug your main the ethernet cable to this device and attach your modem with a separate cable originating from this device. You may think this would have a detrimental effect on connection speed but for my 50/25 mb (down/up) verizon fios connection there was no speed lost (compared before and after with ookla speed test). Yet you may find it troublesome at faster speeds and find this an overkill and that is completely up to you.
Although this protector is advertised as a 12 outlet one, there is no way you can use all at the same time especially if you have bulky adapters like I do.
Finally, I am also surprised about the recent price increase. I bought this a couple of months ago for $21 and now it is almost $29. To me, that is an unfair price jump and you may wish to look for external vendors for better price, but apart from that with all features, I believe this device is the best you can do to protect your valuables from an electrical surge...
I use this USB consolidator/extender not with a computer, but with my television. I have an extensive digital movie collection, which I store on external Seagate hard drives. My television is a Samsung, and is about 4-5 years old. This is important because this model of television only has 1 USB port that will recognize hard drives. This television can only recognize hard drives with up to 2 TB of storage capacity. My library exceeds 2TB of data, so it was important that I could turn this 1 HDD USB port on the television into more than 1. This way instead of only being able to view 2 TB worth of movies and shows I could connect up to 8TB of data.
I am also limited in the number of electrical outlets available in the room with this TV, and have many other electronic devices that require an outlet. This device does not require an additional power source to power my hard drives, Occasionally, I will have an electronic device plugged in that stresses the outlet, and a couple of the older hard drives need to draw power from an outlet. It is nice to be able to effectively shut the power off to these devices, while still being able to access the other drives, and this usually provides enough extra power to run the heavy energy device. It is also nice to be able to turn off the drives without having to unplug the cords, just push the button, and bam! the power to the device is off. It was a godsend for me and met my needs exactly!
Review By ZeeZee
Why does everything have to have stupid-bright blue LEDs?
Warranty voiding information. OH NOES! Perform at your own risk.
I find the LEDs to be annoying, and unnecessary, especially because they remain on in a system standby state. Furthermore, each little LED / resistor combo probably just saps the hub of 20-30mA that could go to attached devices. I have a lot of experience in electronics and the obvious solution seemed best for me for a $10 piece of gear. I permanently disabled the LEDs on two of these. Open the hub with a flat tool of some sort by carefully prying starting where the USB connector is located. It helps to have all 4 buttons pressed in. You'll see each LED clearly marked on the PCB. If unsure, plug it in to see them light up.
While unplugged, carefully pop each LED out of the PCB with a small screwdriver or similar. Take care not to scrape or bump any other components. I pushed it in toward each button to lift. If it doesn't come clean off of the solder joint, it doesn't matter. All it really takes is a substantial crack in the diode to render it useless. The LED current passes through a nearby current-limiting resistor to the common grounding planes, and disabling them doesn't impact the hub chip's performance. Verify that there are no pieces of LED left in the case. Carefully test all four ports after plugging it back in. Replace the cover and live happy without that annoying blue LED.
You could also instead just cut the traces near the LEDs, or try to lift the nearby resistor. Your mileage may vary with this method. It's too hard to get a sharp blade in there without a really small Exacto knife.
Another less destructive option might be to just cover the LED with a few layers of permanent marker or nail polish. I've seen this recommended on other sites. The problem with this device is the board is so small and the components are packed in very tightly.
The end result; The hubs work great in Linux and I can keep them permanently attached and all switches on without all of the annoying constant blue burst of LED light.
As a background, I am a retired Information Systems professional and I am writing my first impressions of the NEW Fire HD 8 released on September 21, 2016 from the perspective of being a long-term Kindle user. I have all the current e-readers and Fire devices from Amazon including the basic Kindle, the Paperwhite (2013,2014,2015 models), the Fire HD6, Fire HD7, Fire HDX7 and Fire HDX8.9 (3rd and 4th generation), the old Fire HD 8 and the Fire HD 10. Here is a summary of my initial impressions of the new Fire HD8.
Amazon has replaced the original HD 8 released in 2015 with an “All-New” HD 8. Amazon is also removing the Fire HD6, which is a shame as it is a great little tablet.
The new HD 8 differs from the old version as follows:
BEST NEW FEATURE:
The price has been reduced! The 16 GB version of the old device cost $169.99 with special offers (ads). The new 16 GB version costs 89.99 and you can get a 32 HB version for $30 more.
SECRETLY REMOVED:
Amazon has removed the ability to mirror your display on Miracast devices such as TVs. Now that feature is now only available on generation 4 and 5 Fires including last years HD 8. However, you can still cast Prime videos to a FireTV or Fire Stick.
WHAT COMES IN THE BOX:
The HD8 Fire, a short 3-foot USB cord and a power adapter so you can charge and use the device right out of the box.
SIZE:
The new HD8 is a fraction thicker than the 2015 HD8. Leather cases for the old HD 8 will fit the new HD 8 but hard shell cases will not. However the auto wake feature of some older cases won't work.
One complaint I had about the earlier versions was that the back was very slick and slippery to hold without a case. The new version is finely matted or textured so it is much easier to hold without dropping it and is no longer a fingerprint magnet on the back.
DISPLAY:
The resolution of the screen is the same 1280 x 800. However, the new HD 8 seems to have darker blacks with more contrast when compared to the older version. The display is nice and bright but still barely readable in bright sunlight. Amazon has added adaptive brightness to the new 2016 HD 8. When enabled, the brightness of the display changes depending on the level of light in the room. Practically speaking, this is only useful indoors when adjusting for night time reading because it is difficult to see the display in bright outdoor sunshine.
I do like that you can choose your own wallpaper! It comes with 9 stock images and if you don't like one of them, you can choose your own image in your Amazon Photos folder.
PROCESSOR:
Both the new and old HD8 use a System on chip (SoC) platform where the CPU, GPU and Bluetooth are integrated on one chip platform. The new HD 8 has a faster MediaTek MT8163V/B 64-bit quad-core processor advertised as running at 1.3Ghz. Tests show that this processor operates with a CPU frequency of 1300 MHz max and 600 MHz min.
The old processor was a MediaTek MT8135 32-bit processor which was advertised as having one quad-core processor operating at 1.5GHz. Tests reveal that operating speeds were 1200 MHz max and 364 MHz min frequencies.
The GPU (graphics processing unit) on the new HD8 is an ARM Mali-T720 versus the older PowerVRg6200. Overall, the newer chip operates faster than the old chip.
BLUETOOTH:
Bluetooth version has been upgraded from 4.0 LE to 4.1 LE.
STORAGE:
The HD8 is now available with 16 GB and 32GB instead of 8 GB and 16 GB and Amazon still has a slot where you can insert a microSD card. The 2016 HD 8 accepts a MicroSD card up to 200 GB instead of the maximum 128 GB on the 2015 HD 8.
I recommend purchasing the 32GB version instead of ordering the 16 GB and adding an SD card. You will probably not need an additional card with the 32 GB version, but if you find that you are running short of space, you can always add one later. If you do add an external card, I do not recommend installing apps on an auxiliary card for several reasons. 1) Some apps WON’T install on auxiliary cards and those that do, use space on the internal drive as well as the microSD card. 2) the Fire apps seem to run faster on the internal drive. 3) If your SDcard goes bad, you are going to have devote some time reinstalling all your apps and resetting your settings.
RAM MEMORY:
More importantly, the new device has 1.5 GB of RAM versus 1.0 GB. Because of these upgrades, the new HD 8 is much snappier than the old version.
WEIGHT:
It is heavier: 12.0 ounces vs 11.0 ounces thanks to the larger battery
BATTERY LIFE:
The battery life is a big improvement. The new battery has been sized up to 4,750 mAh from the previous version which had a 3,210 mAh battery. The older model was rated at 8 hours but the new model is rated at 12 hours of mixed use. My biggest criticism of the old version was the battery which ran down very rapidly. I just kept the thing plugged in all the time because I could only use it for about 5 hours, not 8 hours, without being plugged in. The new version is definitely improved and it seems to last about 50% longer than the old one. Your own results may vary from mine depending on use.
WIFI CONNECTIVITY:
Sadly, Amazon installs a single antenna and has removed the 802.11ac wireless protocol from the new HD 8. What does this mean? In a nutshell, speed.
802.11 ac WiFi is much faster, but its peak speeds are not really the selling point. Its speeds at long range are. The AC protocol factors in “beamforming.” Beamforming is a “smart signal” which detects where connected devices are and increases signal strength specifically in their direction. So the performance as well as higher speed of 802.11ac are maintained far better at long range. Speed is not a factor for really short actions such as downloading books but if you plan on downloading movie videos, plan on taking a long lunch break.
When testing both my old and new HD8 devices from a far corner of my house, the new 2016 HD 8 connected at 65 Mbps but the old 2015 connected at 433 Mbps.
As you can see, the results show how much faster 802.11ac operates.
CAMERA:
The new HD 8 has been reduced to the same camera specs as the basic Fire. The camera quality is not as good on the new HD 8 as the old HD 8. Instead of maintaining a 720 HD front-facing camera with a 5 MP rear-facing camera with 1080p HD video recording, the new HD 8 comes with a VGA front-facing camera with a 2 MP rear-facing camera with 720p HD video recording. The quality of the new camera is obviously inferior and it shows when taking pictures. The image inferiority is really obvious when used in indoor settings. There is no flash so the pictures often come out very grainy when used indoors.
SOUND:
This is where the HD 8 shines. Amazon includes Dolby Atmos and dual stereo speakers. The HD 8 has one of the best sounds, both in quality and loudness, as any tablet I own.
UPDATE October 14, 2016. I need to clarify my comment about the sound. The speakers are terrible on all the Fires, including this one. This has become so second nature to me that I always use headphones, bluetooth speakers and occasionally even pair up my device to my Amazon Echo. When connected to an alternate speaker device, the sound quality is excellent.
The volume buttons are placed along the top of the HD 8 along with the power button, the headphone jack and the power receptacle. So all the buttons you would touch are on top. No buttons are on the sides or bottom.
The nice feature of the volume buttons is that they are “sensitive” to the orientation of the tablet. So if you are watching a movie in landscape mode with the volume buttons on the left, the upper button increases volume and the lower button decreases sound. If you flip the tablet 180 degrees so that the buttons are now on the right, most devices will use the same buttons for volume but in order to increase volume, the button you will need to press is now the LOWER button. The Fire HD 8 is smart enough to reverse the functions so that the upper button still increases the volume.
Atmos is a surround sound technology, developed in 2012, that expands upon the current 5.1 and 7.1 set-ups. With Atmos, each speaker has its own feed, enabling new front, surround and ceiling-mounted height channels. I was watching a movie with cheap headphones and thought I heard helicopters fly by my house. It took me a minute to realize that the sound was from the helicopters in the movie. It really sounded like they were coming from the left and moving to the right OVERHEAD. Wow, I was impressed!! (Note: I used Bluetooth headphones to test the Atmos quality of the sound.)
GPS:
The new 2016 HD 8 location services are only WiFi-based. Some older Fires such as the HDX 7 and the HDX 8.9 also included GPS and a-GPS. Assisted GPS (a-GPS) significantly improved startup performance of a GPS satellite-based positioning system.
What this means is that location services in the new HD 8 really does not exist because there is no GPS location service utilizing satellites. Instead, the device approximates your location based on your WiFi IP address. When WiFi is turned off or not available, apps that utilize location services such as mapping apps do not work. This is a real bummer because I use my older devices in the car while traveling with downloaded maps and would like to replace them with the HD 8. The older Fires work so much better than my phone because of the larger screen size. This was a feature I really miss in the current Fires. I could connect to my car Bluetooth to listen to music and Audible books and receive driving instructions at the same time. I could also set my HERE map app to let me know when I was driving over the speed limit to ensure that my foot didn’t become a little too heavy.
CURRENT OS:
2016 HD 8 is Fire OS 5.3 based on Android 5.1.1, API level 22. 2015 HD8 is based on Android 5.1, API level 22. Effectively, the settings menus are slightly different.
FINAL IMPRESSIONS:
I like the new HD 8. It is a good basic tablet for those who love the Amazon experience. Even though it has some features that have been degraded, overall it is a snappier and brighter tablet at a very reasonable price. I cannot evaluate the Alexa enhancement nor On Deck for Prime members feature as they have not been released for any Amazon Fire yet.
The 8-inch size seems a good balance for those who want only one device. It is slightly larger than the basic Fire but not so cumbersome as the HD 10. If you only want one Amazon tablet, I would recommend this one, especially if you are an avid Amazon prime customer. If you have the older HDX 7 or the 2014 HD 7, it is probably not worth the upgrade unless you are running out of storage space.
If you want a device to read books, I recommend that you get the Paperwhite or the Voyage. They can be read ANYWHERE, even in bright sunlight, have incredible battery life and have a few features specific to reading that are not available on the Fires.
There are some default settings that I change for personal use. All changes are done from the Settings menu. For those who want to know what I prefer, some of the more important changes are:
1) I change the wallpaper. Amazon has some nice pictures but I like my own better.
2) I set the display sleep to 10 minutes instead of the default 5 minutes. I get sidetracked too often so need the extra time so that my display doesn’t go into sleep mode.
3) I set the “Find Your Tablet” to “ON.” You never know if it could be stolen or if you do stupid things like leave your tablet at Starbucks. :-}
4) I turn “Collect App Usage Data” to “OFF.” If you play a lot of games or use certain Amazon Underground apps that require it, you might need to keep this on.
5) I disable auto-correction. Under Personal->Keyboard and Language->Fire Basic Keyboard Settings->Text Correction->Auto-Correction, I select Off. I hate it when I am typing and I don’t catch it when the tablet changes my words because the auto-correction decided on something totally irrelevant.
6) I change my search provider from “Bing” to “Google” under Apps & Games->Amazon Application Settings->Silk Browser->Advanced settings->Search engine
7) I change my Email group into conversations settings. Go to Settings->Conversation Settings->Group Messages Into Conversations and set to “OFF.” Too many times, I can’t tell if I got a reply because it’s buried in the conversation.
8) I also change my “After delete, go to” setting to “Older message.” When I am reading an email and delete it, I prefer to go to the next message instead of back to the list of messages.
9) Under Home Settings, I turn Home Recommendations OFF as well as turning Show Apps on the Recent Page OFF. This helps to remove clutter.
10) On the Home screen, I move my more frequently used apps to the top so that I don’t have to scroll down to find them. The less used ones, I arrange alphabetically so that I can find them as I scroll down.
CAVEAT: The Amazon Fire tablets do not use Google play so many Android applications such as Google maps and a lot of games are not available. There are ways to get around this but I don’t recommend it unless you know what you are doing. I also noted that a few apps on my old tablet do not show up as available on my 2016 HD 8. I use HERE WeGo which is an excellent replacement for Google Maps. Now I don’t have Google maps or HERE. Amazon has its own Map app but it is inferior to the other two.
If you read the internet you will find alot of reviews on this device, go ahead and check i can wait. Ok now here is the deal and what most of those reviews are missing, what this little device actually is. Try not to think of this device as a desktop replacement, ultra portable laptop, or even a netbook. If that is what you are looking for all of those devices exist here on amazon, and there are some really nice options for even less than this device. What this device truly is, is a tablet alternative. This particular device fold in several ways including a tablet version, if you are willing to set chrome to beta mode it's possible to even activate android apps, you read that correctly. So the end result is a dual purpose machine. In chrome mode it offers a great internet experience and even has some offline functions, but with the power of android included you can now use this device to supplement or even replace a tablet. If you search for tablet from reputable companies, the ricing is in the ball park of his little device, but they do nt have a keyboard, mouse, or clam shell design to protect the unit.
Now that is straight and we have defined the device lets talk hardware, the processor gets the job done, it won't be the firs to finish processes but it does its job well and with out excess heat, mind you it accomplishes this with no fan. Screen is comfortable to look at and doesn't hurt your eyes, blacks are dark the letters are crisp. It's y no means a 4K screen but it's no slouch. the mouse pad is very nice, multi touch and turns off when typing so you're not clicking all over the screen, the mouse does work on android apps as well. Speaking of screens the touch on the is nice. it seems to touch where i am aiming regardless of android or chrome apps. Sound is adequate, the definition isn't the best but it's far better than the micro speakers in most tablets. the volume is acceptable for low noise areas but if the plan is to use the device as a dj station get some BT speakers, (i recommend the JBL charge 2+). Battey life is as little as 7 hours with full brightness, max volume, BT, wireless and processor all running.
It appears (I am unsure as I have not managed to kill the battery fully with normal use) that the battery will give you 9-12 hours of surfing the web with screen brightness low, BT off and music set to a reasonable level. Other features are 2 USB ports, it will recognize and work with a USB lan adapter (I tested with a Linksys etherfast 10/100 model USB100m), the flip recognized and connected instantly. This also has an HDMI micro port, and MicroSD. It's important to note the MicroSD at this time does not allow the install of programs to it.
Are you still reading? Yes AWESOME! so who is this for, this is perfect for someone who wants a android tablet and a external keyboard. IF you are concerned between the 2 or 4 GB of ram unit then just wait for the 4GB. Today it is likely more than is needed but with Android coming to Chrome, you will want it later on.
Review By EDL_Photographic
My title at work is Technology Architect. I have experience with Apple Mac, Windows PC, Android, Linux PC, Chromebook, Solaris PC, and various enterprise computer solutions. This may be more technical than most people want.
TL;DR/BLUF This thing will do everything your PC will do. And the battery lasts longer.
Details
* The body of this device is well built, the case is all metal. The only plastic is surrounding the hinge.
* I forget to plug this in all the time. I am using it all the time and it will easily last a work day for me.
* The Keyboard is a chiclet style which I love. It is a bit small for my fingers, but not overly uncomfortable. When it is in tablet mode it is disabled which is a nice feature. And an onscreen keyboard is available. the key presses are the right depth and response. It is not easy to get hair in between the keys.
* The screen is glass. I can see the screen all the way to 180 degrees. I have hairy pets and the screen collects fur almost as much as my couch. It also collects fingerprints because it is a capacitive touch screen. The touch screen has been very responsive. However, hitting the small little X to close a tab in chrome with my big fingers does not always work.
* Touchpad is responsive, but not too responsive. On the ASUS T100 hovering my thumbs over the keyboard caused mouse movements. That does not happen with this device. The multifunctions work well. Duel fingers for right clicking etc.
* I rarely use this as a tablet, but the function is there and the OS flips smoothly.
* Office tools I use the google tools found in the store. While on the plane or in places with not internet I use the offline mode which allows me to continue to work. And then I can share the documents easily with drive. Once I got used to this workflow I never want to go back to endlessly emailing documents back and forth.
* Citrix is able to be installed and I am able to use both Virtual Applications and Virtual Desktops. This means I can access all the applications and desktops that my company and the companies I advise provide me to work in their environments.
* VMware I have not tested this fully. I have just gotten it installed and will be testing with the new client that uses VMWare for virtualization
* Azure. Haven't test. I will for Ignite in the Spring.
* Kindle Since I travel a lot I like to read on the flights. I usually get a book for the trip. And the Kindle app works great even when there is no wifi on the flight. I haven't tested the google books app yet, because I really like Amazon's book system.
* ChromeOS The Chrome OS is simple to get used too. They have kept it similar to Windows. One thing I'm not sure I like or understand is only having apps on the taskbar and not on the desktop screen. I firmly believe this OS is one to watch. Most likely the new OS for Enterprise environments. Oh yeah I am on the google canary versions so I get to play with the latest OS versions. It is easy to setup. And I don't experience too many crashes.
* I have a network cable to USB adapter that I use to connect to wired internet access. Works great.
* I have a USB to serial adapter that I use to connect to console ports on Cisco routers and switches that works great with the Beagle app to administer network devices.
* I have google fiber and the built in AC wifi card will not give me full speed. I think this is a software restriction. Ping is 2mbs down is 155mbs up is 160mbs. On 5 ghz its range is about 15 ft. on 2.4 ghz it is considerably more. It is easy to proxy many easy to access features in the WIfi interface. I haven't tried changing the MAC address yet. May have to do that.
* I use google music with a bluetooth headset to listen to music and books to drown out the other cubes at work. I also connect my phone and my phones headset. I use Airdroid to control the phone and make phone calls. The pairing is easy to do. takes a couple of clicks to turn on and off. I keep it off when not in use for security reasons. The range is around 50 meters.
* Since my old profession as Photographer is now my hobby, I want to be able to edit photos. The built in gallery tool is OK. But the Polarr app is very very good. It can do almost the same as photoshop and gimp. There is also Pixl webversion. But I'm not as big of a fan. It is missing software that works like Lightroom. I am still learning things. It may be able to do it.
* Since I really like linux, I setup Kali Linux on Crouton on a micro-sdcard in the built in micro-sdcard slot. TF-card for those outside the US. The first time I did it, I used a slower 64gb card. It worked, but it had weird delays. The Lexar micro-sdcard 10 with the faster read writes fixed that.I also used the crouton extension and switching from chromeos to Kali is easy. One problem I did run into was adding external wifi cards. The Alfa AWUSO36NHA and the TP722 are not recognized. I haven't solved that problem yet.
* Chromecasting does work. Both on the new and old chromecast. But don't use those regularly. add the extension for the browser and away you go.
* an add on for ssh is there.
* ctl+alt+t gets a crosh shell which is good only to get to shell which is enabled in developer mode. Google developer mode to see if you want that.
* The Rockchip cpu is great. I've used it in the past.
* HDMI to VGA adapter works great with external montiors, projectors, and TV's.
* I highly recommend the 4 gb ram version.
* One drawback to the keyboard is that it is not backlit and that sucks surfing the web at night
* One really nice thing, is that once things are signed in all the google stuff integrates and pulls everything you setup with google. You don't have to spend days installing things that were setup on old workstations. Google takes care of that for you. Granted there is a price for that. The price is privacy. Google keeps track of everything. So far Google has a been a good steward of our data; so I am trusting.
* Mentioned a lot of technical stuff that this Chromebook can do because people think that is only able to connect to the internet and good for surfing the web. It does that ,and does that extremely well. But I wanted to point out that it is a fully functioning PC that can replace any PC out there. As a matter of fact, it will replace most PC's eventually.
