Best usb hub charger | The best usb hub
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Review By Millertime
I use this USB consolidator/extender not with a computer, but with my television. I have an extensive digital movie collection, which I store on external Seagate hard drives. My television is a Samsung, and is about 4-5 years old. This is important because this model of television only has 1 USB port that will recognize hard drives. This television can only recognize hard drives with up to 2 TB of storage capacity. My library exceeds 2TB of data, so it was important that I could turn this 1 HDD USB port on the television into more than 1. This way instead of only being able to view 2 TB worth of movies and shows I could connect up to 8TB of data.
I am also limited in the number of electrical outlets available in the room with this TV, and have many other electronic devices that require an outlet. This device does not require an additional power source to power my hard drives, Occasionally, I will have an electronic device plugged in that stresses the outlet, and a couple of the older hard drives need to draw power from an outlet. It is nice to be able to effectively shut the power off to these devices, while still being able to access the other drives, and this usually provides enough extra power to run the heavy energy device. It is also nice to be able to turn off the drives without having to unplug the cords, just push the button, and bam! the power to the device is off. It was a godsend for me and met my needs exactly!
Review By ZeeZee
Why does everything have to have stupid-bright blue LEDs?
Warranty voiding information. OH NOES! Perform at your own risk.
I find the LEDs to be annoying, and unnecessary, especially because they remain on in a system standby state. Furthermore, each little LED / resistor combo probably just saps the hub of 20-30mA that could go to attached devices. I have a lot of experience in electronics and the obvious solution seemed best for me for a $10 piece of gear. I permanently disabled the LEDs on two of these. Open the hub with a flat tool of some sort by carefully prying starting where the USB connector is located. It helps to have all 4 buttons pressed in. You'll see each LED clearly marked on the PCB. If unsure, plug it in to see them light up.
While unplugged, carefully pop each LED out of the PCB with a small screwdriver or similar. Take care not to scrape or bump any other components. I pushed it in toward each button to lift. If it doesn't come clean off of the solder joint, it doesn't matter. All it really takes is a substantial crack in the diode to render it useless. The LED current passes through a nearby current-limiting resistor to the common grounding planes, and disabling them doesn't impact the hub chip's performance. Verify that there are no pieces of LED left in the case. Carefully test all four ports after plugging it back in. Replace the cover and live happy without that annoying blue LED.
You could also instead just cut the traces near the LEDs, or try to lift the nearby resistor. Your mileage may vary with this method. It's too hard to get a sharp blade in there without a really small Exacto knife.
Another less destructive option might be to just cover the LED with a few layers of permanent marker or nail polish. I've seen this recommended on other sites. The problem with this device is the board is so small and the components are packed in very tightly.
The end result; The hubs work great in Linux and I can keep them permanently attached and all switches on without all of the annoying constant blue burst of LED light.
