Showing posts with label Laptop Accessories. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Laptop Accessories. Show all posts

Best smart power outlet



Best smart power outlet
http://amzn.to/2jr0wd7

Review By llenau.shop

This is a Product Review for- Belkin BE112230-08 12-Outlet Surge Protector

I live in an area that we get a lot of thunder storms all the time and I've had a fear that i light loose my computer on of these days. i spent so much time and money building my computer that i wanted to insure that mother nature wont come and take it from me. Too do so I bought
Belkin BE112230-08 12-Outlet Surge Protector. After opening the Belkin BE112230-08 12-Outlet Surge Protector it was a surprise that it was thinner than all my other cheep surge protectors. it was almost half as thin and only wide as two of my other Surge Protectors. After installing the
against i can say the fact that I came with a directional cord holder was a major plus. If I was to only give you one reason why to get the Belkin BE112230-08 12-Outlet Surge Protector is that it comes with a Belkin Lifetime Warranty and $300,000 Connected Equipment Warranty so all my stuff now has a $300,000 insurance policy against mother nature.

I am vary happy with the Belkin BE112230-08 12-Outlet Surge Protector I will be buying again for my family.

Review By MuttleyTOP 1000 REVIEWER

I live in Maryland and bought this as a preparatory measure for this years hurricane season. I wished to protect my recently bought electronic equipment from electrical damage during one of the upcoming thunderstorms. After making an extensive search online, I was surprised that most surge protectors are far from being able to protect anything. Therefore despite I have not experienced how this behaves in an actual surge I wanted to write this review to give you an idea about how surge protectors differ in various aspects and what you should look for before deciding on a real good one:

1- Joule rating: This is the maximum amount of energy it can absorb or redistribure before letting through your device. So higher the rating, better the product. Technically over 400-500 joules are considered to be OK and in this aspect 4156J rating for this device is excellent

2- Response time: This is the delay between a surge hits to this device and the protective mechanism kicks off. Most modern devices are pretty good in this aspect. Ideally the delay should be in picosecond range and this product specifies the delay as less than 1 nanosecond so again in the picosecond level, which is fine

3- Wattage: This is the maximum wattage that can pass through this device. Assume that you daisy chain a plug extender and connected various appliances to the same protector. The sum of the wattage of those devices should be less or equal to the wattage of this device. This device allows a maximum of 1800 watts which means you can not attach a 800W kettle and a 1500 watt heater onto the same plug adapter. However since these surge protectors are mainly designed for small electronic appliances, not for kettles or heaters, then, pratctically there is no possibility to exceed this limit. So which is fine too..

3- The last but not least is the clamping voltage or let through voltage: This is very important when buying a surge protector however in many websites this information is overlooked and not included. Clamping voltage is the voltage, above which the surge protector starts protecting. So basically our appliances are designed for 110V and when there is an electrical surge the voltage coming through the power line can go up to thousands in a split second, which means that all your unprotected devices get instantly toasted and that is why we need a surge protector, however a surge protector does not mean that it will protect you from small voltage deviations. Most standard surge protectors do nothing until the voltage goes above 500V this is their clamping voltage, some cheap ones have clamping voltage of 800V or even more. Considering that most delicate electronic appliances start showing damage above 380V these cheap ones basically do nothing but watch your device burn. The lower the clamping voltage the better protection. Ideally clamping voltage should be between 330- 500 V for a decent unit. This one has a 400V value which is pretty decent too. Some sources even value 400V over 330V due to the fact that lower clamping voltage also means the shorter lifespan for the protector. So 400V triline clamping voltage is great for this unit.

A few words about the ethernet protection: most people think it is really unlikely that your internet or telephone line gets hit instead of your powerline but the internet protection protects you for this possibility. Basically you plug your main the ethernet cable to this device and attach your modem with a separate cable originating from this device. You may think this would have a detrimental effect on connection speed but for my 50/25 mb (down/up) verizon fios connection there was no speed lost (compared before and after with ookla speed test). Yet you may find it troublesome at faster speeds and find this an overkill and that is completely up to you.

Although this protector is advertised as a 12 outlet one, there is no way you can use all at the same time especially if you have bulky adapters like I do.

Finally, I am also surprised about the recent price increase. I bought this a couple of months ago for $21 and now it is almost $29. To me, that is an unfair price jump and you may wish to look for external vendors for better price, but apart from that with all features, I believe this device is the best you can do to protect your valuables from an electrical surge...

Best usb hub charger | The best usb hub



Best usb hub charger | The best usb hub
http://amzn.to/2kLOuYR

Review By Millertime

I use this USB consolidator/extender not with a computer, but with my television. I have an extensive digital movie collection, which I store on external Seagate hard drives. My television is a Samsung, and is about 4-5 years old. This is important because this model of television only has 1 USB port that will recognize hard drives. This television can only recognize hard drives with up to 2 TB of storage capacity. My library exceeds 2TB of data, so it was important that I could turn this 1 HDD USB port on the television into more than 1. This way instead of only being able to view 2 TB worth of movies and shows I could connect up to 8TB of data.

I am also limited in the number of electrical outlets available in the room with this TV, and have many other electronic devices that require an outlet. This device does not require an additional power source to power my hard drives, Occasionally, I will have an electronic device plugged in that stresses the outlet, and a couple of the older hard drives need to draw power from an outlet. It is nice to be able to effectively shut the power off to these devices, while still being able to access the other drives, and this usually provides enough extra power to run the heavy energy device. It is also nice to be able to turn off the drives without having to unplug the cords, just push the button, and bam! the power to the device is off. It was a godsend for me and met my needs exactly!

Review By ZeeZee

Why does everything have to have stupid-bright blue LEDs?

Warranty voiding information. OH NOES! Perform at your own risk.

I find the LEDs to be annoying, and unnecessary, especially because they remain on in a system standby state. Furthermore, each little LED / resistor combo probably just saps the hub of 20-30mA that could go to attached devices. I have a lot of experience in electronics and the obvious solution seemed best for me for a $10 piece of gear. I permanently disabled the LEDs on two of these. Open the hub with a flat tool of some sort by carefully prying starting where the USB connector is located. It helps to have all 4 buttons pressed in. You'll see each LED clearly marked on the PCB. If unsure, plug it in to see them light up.

While unplugged, carefully pop each LED out of the PCB with a small screwdriver or similar. Take care not to scrape or bump any other components. I pushed it in toward each button to lift. If it doesn't come clean off of the solder joint, it doesn't matter. All it really takes is a substantial crack in the diode to render it useless. The LED current passes through a nearby current-limiting resistor to the common grounding planes, and disabling them doesn't impact the hub chip's performance. Verify that there are no pieces of LED left in the case. Carefully test all four ports after plugging it back in. Replace the cover and live happy without that annoying blue LED.

You could also instead just cut the traces near the LEDs, or try to lift the nearby resistor. Your mileage may vary with this method. It's too hard to get a sharp blade in there without a really small Exacto knife.

Another less destructive option might be to just cover the LED with a few layers of permanent marker or nail polish. I've seen this recommended on other sites. The problem with this device is the board is so small and the components are packed in very tightly.

The end result; The hubs work great in Linux and I can keep them permanently attached and all switches on without all of the annoying constant blue burst of LED light.